Krakow, Poland

A complete set of pictures from my trip can be viewed on My Flickr Photo Album

Day 1

Arrive in Krakow and the harsh cold hits you as soon as you step outside. This wasn't before CowFace at immigration gave me a hard time upon sight of my Malaysian passport. While every whitey waltzes through with ease, I had to produce evidence of my hotel booking and return flight. Newsflash sweetheart - I have no interest in staying in Poland longer than necessary. In fact, aren't the Poles all desperate to leave? Anyway, I wasn't about to let CowFace ruin my mood.

By the time we got to the centre it was dark and after a few wrong turns we found our hotel on the Westerplatte. It was big, nice and clean and breakfast was included result. Wr then had dinner at Hawelka Restaurant. PETA wouldn't have approved; I had the veal and Matt had wild boar. THEY WERE GOOD. We walked around Market Square for a bit and decided we were going to freeze to death so we headed back to the hotel. It had been a long day and it would be a busy day tomorrow.

Day 2

Up early, put on thermal underwear and three layers of clothes each. Pleasantly surprised by breakfast as I expected a purely continental spread but there was hot stuff, including German sausages and this brilliant fish cutlet thing (bye bye waistline). It took about 10 chewing gums to sort my breath out though.

Then we headed to the Main Railway Station to go visit Auschwitz. Sent tasteless text messages to a few people saying "I'm on the train to Auschwitz..."

The train to Auschwitz...

The view from the train did not disappoint. Loads of snowy pine forests. Beautiful.

View from train

Auschwitz Main Camp

The infamous gates

Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979. They've been preserved as a Memorial and Museum. Entrance is free but large groups are advised to hire a guide. Upon the advice of Brett and Sarah, we didn't because it can be done on your own and personally, I think it's better to absorb it all at your own pace. To be led around in a group like sheep was a bit ironic. If you can read and know the history you don't need a guide.

The visit is divided into two; the main Camp (Auschwitz I) and Auschwitz II-Birkenau a few miles away.

Auschwitz I has been transformed into a monument of sorts; all the huts have been cleaned and painted and trees and flowers have been planted. A few of the bunkers display the relics discovered upon liberation; the 1.5kg of human hair, shoes, artificial limbs, suitcases etc. Not easy to stomach.

Human hair, mostly women's

Inmates' bowls

Prisoners' suitcases stolen from them

The "Execution Wall" between Blocks 10 & 11

The "Death Block"

Standing cells in the basement of Block 11 - up to 4 or 5 prisoners would be crammed in

The crematorium - photography was not allowed inside

Auschwitz II - Birkenau

In stark contrast with the main camp, nothing here has been "done up". Apart from a few preservation works, everything has been left as it was found. The conditions in the women's barracks (which you were allowed to go in) was harrowing. The now blown-up gas chambers and crematoriums just made you feel sad and angry at the same time.

View of the train tracks from the "Death Tower"

One of the gas chambers/crematoriums
The ashes were scattered in make-shift ponds

The infirmaries

The sleeping bunkers in one of the women's huts

The selection ramp

Day 3

A day of normal sight-seeing was much needed after the bleakness of Auschwitz. So we visited Market Square, Wawel Hill, Kazimierz (the old Jewish Quarter), crossed the Vistula River to check out the former ghetto and Plaszow (ok so maybe some bleakness was thrown in) and overall checked out a really beautiful city rich in history. Although because it was off-peak season, lots of works were being carried out so needless to say, the scaffolding didn't help

Around Market Square

The Planty surrounding the main part of the city

Pictures on sale by the Florian Gate

One of the streets leading away from Market Square

Feel the love

The Jewish Quarter

Former ghetto & Plaszow area

Day 4

It snowed! This is what Eastern Europe should be like




We went shopping all day and eveything was cheap cheap cheap. I was glad that there wasn't a Starbucks in sight; only authentic cafes which I found very quaint. We hung out in Cafe Boogie which I thought was quite funky. I liked the decor.

Later on in the night we checked out a live band - they did mostly covers and it was weird that they sang Simply Red's "Stars"

Final Day

A bit more shopping before heading off to the airport. The snow was coming down with a vengeance this time so it was a good time to leave.